11/28/2023 0 Comments Time out chicago brendan sodikoffThat steak was cooked exactly to the temperature I had requested and had a salty, savory crust, which makes the first bites remarkable. It’s the steak of roast chicken, with a lot more umami than the 24-ounce dry-aged rib eye packs. The fried chicken is crazy good, the juicy wings encased in a flaky and crunchy crust the roast chicken is otherworldly, with skin a very dark amber, delicate and moist flesh and a thick jus on the plate. ![]() In fact, I had better luck with the chicken. ![]() Sodikoff’s other spots are taste-specific the loveliness of this one is, I believe, close to universal. Like his other spots, the place is highly conceptual, but the concept-jazz-era steakhouse with light French touches-is more sophisticated. The room is lit differently golden light bounces between tufted red-leather booths and the mirrored bar. Contrary to the reports I heard, it’s a deviation, or, to put it in terms closer to my opinion, an evolution. Throw Doughnut Vault in there as the (pudgy) black sheep and you have a strong, if somewhat predictable, family of restaurants.īavette’s messes with this metaphor. His first three restaurants act something like triplets, all with similar looks and personalities and food, but slightly different interests. Which isn’t fair, except that, well, Sodikoff does have something of a track record. Having now made a few visits to Bavette’s, I’m guessing these reports were based purely on conjecture. “It’s just like all his other spots,” a friend told me. A couple of weeks after Brendan Sodikoff opened Bavette’s, I started hearing reports.
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